Dan Varian
Height: |
183cm |
|---|---|
Ape index: |
+4cm |
Born: |
16/07/1987 in Carlisle |
Current Location: |
Sheffield |
Been climbing for: |
9 years |
Fav 5:10 Shoe: |
Anasazi velcro, then moccasyms and Teams. |
Memorable Climbing Moment: |
Loads, mostly Trad and bouldering related |
Climbing Heroes: |
Anyone really trying hard and pushing things. But Malc, Gaskins, Mike Adams and Marcus Windisch are particularly inspiring, lots of dedication, strength and Humility are always admirable traits. |
Loves: |
Big/ hard lines, any holds except massive pinches, outside edging, pure power moves. Smart wool thermals and socks. |
Hates: |
Massive pinches, chipping, naming climbs after one's self, getting lost on the way to the crag, am fairly energy concious too so wasting it bugs me a bit. |
Fav Book: |
Lots, cult novels or classics, am currrently reading alot of non fiction. SEWTHA by David Mackay and Heat by george monbiot are really useful books. |
Fav Music: |
Even harder to pick, infact i can't as if i put one name down i feel bad for leaving some out. |
Fav Climb: |
This one is easy, Malcs Arete in Torridon, because it is perfect in every way. Arc Royal using the sequence i pigheadedly stuck with will always be special to me. |
Other Hobbies: |
Trials and freeride mtb, learning guitar, scrabble, learning foreign languages (german and Italian mostly and a little bit of french) |
Occupation: |
Run beastmaker with Ned, and teach climbing at Sheffield Uni. |
Website: |
DAN's BLOG
10th Apr 2011 Dan Varian Training hard
It's been a good winter of development in the peak (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60695), i thought i'd write about one of my favourite moments of the winter.
it was the last days of November and my mind was set on the Roaches at the time, i wanted to get back and look at a project i'd checked out earlier in the year which i thought was a total cracker, classic gritstone power, short unrelenting and no footholds. Armed with some sazi velcros that have clocked over 40 font 8 scalps in the last year i was pretty confident i could push into the smears in a shoe i was practically symbiotic with when bouldering. We (Neil Mawson, James McHaffie and I) had already had a great day on a windy skyline, doing things like crystal voyager and Art Nouveau and many other classics along the way so i felt under no great pressure and it was the start of the grit season, so i had nothing but time.

After 10minutes of feet popping and it generally feeling like i was going nowhere but heel first into frustrationville i had a little rest and pulled on. I'd worked the sequence earlier in the year and i still had the incredibly basic beta in my head, the next few seconds whizzed by in a fantastic blur of hitting holds perfectly, feet staying and triple filtered focus whisking me up the problem in a blur of what was to become one of my fondest bouldering memories.
As a result the one of the 2 great Nth cloud projects has become the Nth power, and its somewhere around soft 8A+ at a guess, it could be easier it could be harder, all i know is that you'll bloody love it if you find that perfect go, and it'll drive you mad if you don't.