Sometimes A <Del>Great</Del> Primitive Notion
A boulder problem…. at Kilnsey!? Last week I succeeded in climbing Primitive Notion, a V12 that was put up by Steve Dunning a few years back. I have spent a few sessions trying this over the summer. It’s tucked away at the left-hand end of Kilnsey where you get the privilege of making awkward conversation with route climbers on their way round the corner for a p*ss stop. It goes without saying that the boulder problems at Kilnsey aren’t anywhere near as impressive as the routes, but thankfully the rock quality of the crag makes for some interesting problems. Primitive Notion itself includes 2 heel-toe locks, a toe hook, a crux dyno/jump, a cross-through and a final tricky lerp to the finish jug.
Earlier on in the summer I got close to the ‘send’ but fell off when I got overzealous on the crux jump, completely overshooting the hold. Despite my best efforts, it took a good couple of months to get the problem in the satchel, having returned on a few occasions only to be driven away by an onslaught of midges and soggy rock. The good conditions were delivered last week and all previous disappointments were forgotten.
Below is a video screenshot of the climb, the first of the two toe hooks.
Contributed by: David Jones