Three Dublin Days... from Tops Off 4POWER on Vimeo.

 

Cheers Ricky for the video and Michael, Jenny, Danny, Danielle and Dave for floors to sleep on.

 

This place seems to have got a bit of a slating (excuse the pun) by people, myself being one but this really is a case of appearances being deceptive. It definitely isn't a world class venue but there are a few good lines that really pack a punch.

The climbing is burly to say the least; poor slippy feet make the wrestling with upside down jugs very tiring. The climbing here is like being at the wall-gymnastic movement that leaves the core and ones biceps absolutely pooped, oh and everything is a few moves longer than what you would like, leading to, or in my case at least the dropping of last moves over and over and over again!

I would say the three problems in the video below are the choice selection of what's on offer at Forest Rock with Heathen Chemistry definitely being the best of these.

I would say Forest Rock is definitely worth a visit especially in these times of whacky of weather as bits stay dry in the rain and all is reasonably sheltered from the sun.

Forest Rock, Leicestershire from David Mason on Vimeo.

Power of the Darkside:Matlock Bank Quarry from David Mason on Vimeo.

 

I am actually about to go to Ireland for 2 weeks but thought I would write a few words about the last month or so here in the Peak.

The weather has been pretty consistent it has to be said; yes we had large dumps of snow but the temperatures have stayed low enough that it hasn’t all just turned to slush! For grit stone climbing this snow brings about the opportunity of SNOWBALLING; basically climbing slightly to very scary boulders and short routes above snow platforms. This obviously reduces the danger element and makes many climbs on grit more amenable to us less than hardy folk.

This ‘snowballing’ phenomenon seems to have happened for the last few years however for some reason I have always missed it; to say I was excited was a bit of an understatement. All this white stuff was timed nicely with me feeling a bit tired and jaded with training; what better solution than getting out on the real thing. Thank you to the weather gods for their perfect timing!

So down to the nitty gritty; lots of routes had platforms built under them and I capitalised upon a few of these platforms with ascents of Black Car Burning at Apparent North and The Promise at Burbage North. Both thoroughly brilliant, although a little on the rough side; the snow turned them into what I would call ‘highball’ boulder problems.

In this period I also climbed probably the scariest two climbs that I have done; Return of the Jedi and Simba’s Pride. Although there was no snow under Return of the Jedi a couple of us managed to pad it out. I think this makes it into a highball 7c boulder to a ledge where you can get a hands off rest and place some gear (or in our case clip the pre-placed gear), a couple of moves later you are at the top! I took a couple of big falls on this one and actually missed the pads on one occasion, landing conveniently between two rocks! PHEW! Needless to say I had a sore neck and back for the next few days.

Now we come to a proper route; Simba’s Pride at Burbage South is a stunning arête and one that I never thought I would have the guts to climb. The climbing is probably no harder than V4 or 5 but the last move is the hardest and falling from here would end in broken bones and a hospital visit! Now the snow really made no impression on this route, it just meant we had a flatter platform on which to place pads. Upon arrival I was struck with actually how big this thing was; much bigger than I had remembered and I feared I just wouldn’t commit at the top. I watched Ethan and Pete have a few goes; both getting to the last move and jumping off onto the pads!! I really didn’t fancy that fall; even in control it was miles. Ethan then manned up and did it; very inspirational indeed!

There was nothing for it but for me to have a go. On went the boots and the chalk bag and with a deep inhalation I set off. The next 40 seconds is a bit of blur really; I heard slight bits of beta shouted up from the ground and other than that I was in what I imagine people call the ‘zone’. After what seemed like a lifetime I arrived at the last move; a big slap off average holds at about 8 metres off the deck; a brief moment of hesitation but the thought of jumping off made me feel sick and so I pushed on up. Hitting the top was one of the most relieving feelings I have experienced in my life; realisation that I wasn’t lying bruised and battered on the ground a nice one! Now I think this is the first flash of Simba’s and I feel very privileged to have been the one to do this but actually realising a dream and climbing something I never thought I would is a far better feeling.

A few goes later Pete Whittaker also climbed Simba’s Pride and I think jumping off from the last move the 5 or 6 times he did gets him the real E grade and I imagine a very achy back the next day!!

Ticklist over the past month:

Press Low Left 8a

Blazing 48’s 8a

Westworld 7c+

Walk on By 7c+

Jason’s Roof 7c+

The Promise 7c

Return of the Jedi 7c

Mother of Pearl start 7c

Black Car Burning 7a+

Simba’s Pride E8 6b 

Snowballing at Stanage and Burbage South from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

Return of the Jedi: Matlock Quarries from David Mason on Vimeo.

Dark Matter 8a+ in Huntington Canyon, Utah. from David Mason on Vimeo.

Dave Mason - low left press, rubicon from ben pritchard on Vimeo.

David Mason climbing in Right Fork, Joe's Valley from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.