David Mason climbing at Halloween Town, Joe's Valley. from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

Day 89 of 90:Horsetooth Resevoir from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

David Mason:A Thrutchy Afternoon in Boulder Canyon from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

Before I start I must warn you this blog is all about one boulder. I normally try not to bore you with the specifics of a send but the significance of this climb to me warrants the specificity in my opinion.

Both Sides of the Spectrum was put up in 2007 by Harry Robertson, later in the year I saw a video of Tyler Landman and Dave Graham climbing it; since then this stunning ‘Karma’ like climb has been on my all-time 'to do' list. It is a subtle climb that requires a balance of technique, flexibility, left shoulder power and good conditions. It is also very simple; just 5 moves in length on perfect white granite; bouldering in a nut shell in my eyes.

I tried it briefly in the summer and although I managed to hold the sloper once I was going nowhere. I remember feeling dejected as it was what I wanted to do more than anything and a mixture of poor conditions, skin and probably a lack of strength had denied me.

With our time in Colorado coming to an end and Joes Valley beckoning I still hadn't been up to Both Sides. It sits in the sun all day long and this makes it tricky to get the right conditions. However last Saturday a cold, cloudy autumn day graced us with its presence. I was excited to head up, things had been going my way and confidence was high. Walking to the boulder is one of the easier ones in Colorado; a flat 20 minute saunter through golden aspens with the sound of the river filling the brisk afternoon air.

Mike, Adam and Myself discussing  the intricacies of slopers!

Arriving we met Adam, Mike and Ben; friends who live in Estes Park, they looked cold and said conditions were ‘minty’. I started the warming up process, which took a while but after climbing the brilliant Hanging arête I thought I was ready. A couple of throws to work out the feet and the next thing I knew I had stuck the sloper, put my heel up and was rocking towards the top. This is where the body position becomes strange, I couldn't figure it out, wasting time my heel popped and I was earth bound. Dragons off, Freerides on for a thawing of the toes, I was excited I knew if I could just figure the body position I would be ‘in like flin’ (not sure who flin is or where this comes from)!

Another go ended in the same result and then I remembered Kevin saying instead of shouldering the sloper that he found if he pulled towards it he found a good body position. Another warming of the cockles, feet and hands, a sip of something hot from the thermos and I was ready. I could feel excitement brimming up inside me.

Pulling on, I hit the sloper and placed my heel the same as before but this time I really pulled over towards the left hand, click, my body was in a position that I could move from. I went again with my right hand and latched the slopey rail, praying for my heel not to pop I matched in. I knew I was close, my mind started to race should I change my heel to a toe, tick-tock, tick-tock. Time seemed to slow but watching the video back I was only there for a few seconds, I went with the heel and moved my right hand again up the top and the relief of a good hold!

Topping out Both Sides of the Spectrum felt so good, it's not the hardest climb in the world but I had wanted to do it more than anything else in Colorado and would have gladly sacrificed my other ascents to climb this boulder.

I was simply elated!

David Mason climbing Both Sides of the Spectrum in Moraine Park. from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

Where to start?! I think a summary of what is planned for the next 3 months is in order!

Two people, one van and three months of investigating what the US has to offer; from the alpine areas of Colorado to the desert sandstone of Joes Valley and finishing off with the flawless granite boulders of Yosemite. If time allows we hope to visit Independence Pass, Ibex and the high marble like boulders of Bishop.

Now this is the plan, will we stick to it?! Who knows! Already we have stayed longer in Colorado than planned as the heat wave hitting the mid-west of the United States continues the alpine is the only place to take refuge. We were here earlier in the year and I have to say we had an amazing time but not due to the climbing! It was just too hot and we slunk back to Blighty with our tails between our legs like a couple of whippets ousted from the tracks.

Although it is still hot in Boulder as you wind your way up the mountain roads the temperatures dip with every mile passed on the odometer and a cool, crisp breeze brings freshness to the air that reminds me of a cold day out in the Peak District. Picture painted? Air tickets bought? Don’t be too hasty! Since being here we have had three days of continuous thunderstorms and an average temperature of at least 25°C but nestled between that misery a few pukka days also.

While in Boulder we are staying with Jackie, Chris, Kevin and Royal aka fuzz aka puppy, he is a malamute not a homosapien. This gives us time to lap up the luxuries that life has to offer and kit out the van with everything we need for being on the road. We bought a 1992 GMC Vandura when we here in the summer; although old it is pretty palatial; electric windows and bed, cruise control, captains seats, wood veneer and of course 2 CD players for listening to Genesis and Elton John at the same time!

The Fuzz

Our Little Beauty in Bear Lake Parking, RMNP.

At first I wasn’t a fan of Boulder but I am definitely getting used to being here and actually starting to really like the place. Boulder is also much more bearable in 30°C than 40°C! At this time of year the Aspens are changing their leaves; yellows, burnt oranges and deep reds adorn the mountain sides and the highest peaks have a dusting of snow like icing sugar on a Victoria sponge. Pictures can’t do it justice.

Golden Aspens nestled between the charred remains of a wild fire.

Aspens on the way to Mount Evans.

Arriving back in the UK dejected after what was supposed to have been a fruitful summer trip to Colorado, I decided to get back into serious training mode. I trained hard for 10 weeks with a short rest in Fontainebleau in the middle to recuperate my psyche and energy and nurse some painful elbows. During this time I went through pain both physically and mentally as I always do when training hard but I dug deep and clung to that far off dream of US rock climbing! I have to say I am glad I did! Colorado was a time for me to get back into what it feels like to climb on rock; pulling on wood and resin might make you stronger but it doesn’t prepare you for the real deal. It was also the place I was least bothered about climbing specific things; my list for Joes and Yosemite is over 50 problems long!! However there were a few gems I was keen to try-

Great War for Civilisation at Lincoln Lake was swiftly scrubbed from the list as snow meant the road up there had closed earlier than expected.

Both Sides of the Spectrum at RMNP has of yet still not been climbed on since a few sweaty attempts in June. However colder temperatures are promised for this weekend so fingers crossed.

Veritas at RMNP is an on-going process; I managed to sweat and grease my way off the top of it the other day, again colder temperatures will hopefully bring glory, and what are we without glory (name the film climbing geeks)?!

On the up side…..

I climbed No More Greener Grass at Mount Evans in a few goes which is all my skin would allow for. This line is a case of beauty and the beast; a stunning line with good movement but unfortunately this movement is on beastly crimps that cut and bruise leaving the finger tips with the feel of a tenderised piece of meat!

Other success comes in the form of Tetris at Wild Basin, a compression prow that is 11 hand moves long. Squeezing, hugging and grunt was what it took to slay this beast, glad I worked on my power endurance over the summer!

David Mason on Tetris V12 at Wild Basin, RMNP. from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

And how about a surprise to put the cherry on top; yesterday evening I managed to fight through numb, hot ached fingers and burning flash pump to climb Bush Pilot first shot. A classic at Lower Chaos in RMNP this thuggy little number has a stopper last move involving dead pointing off a ridiculously high foot to a right hand edge.

And that has been Colorado in a nut shell or maybe a coconut shell looking at the length of this piece. Mina is also climbing really well; and making a habit of dropping the last moves on really hard boulders, a fall and a blistered tip the other day has slightly set her back but with her ankle taped she will be on a role soon!

 Next stop Joes Valley….

David Mason climbs Aqua-Planning in the forest of Fontainebleau. from Moon Climbing on Vimeo.

Mina on l'angle Parfait at Dame Jouanne.

Benoir the resident cat at The House, Tousson.

Mina climbing La Dalle a Polly, Elephant.

Fontainebleau: A good place to test the smearing capabilities of the Daescent.

Do you know where the 7+8's tree is?!

A month since touching back down in the UK and I am pleased to say it has been productive! Colorado was a complete write off for me with temperatures soaring way above averages for that time of year and my complete lack of strength and fitness left me with an empty feeling in the pit of my stomach. I had felt good climbing wise before leaving for the States, I knew I wasn't the strongest I had ever been due to niggling finger injuries leaving me unable to train my crimp strength but I felt good on plastic....note to self this doesn't reflect on how you will perform on rock in 40 degree heat!

Anyway negative rant over, I came home and decided to train; my fingers seemed to be feeling good enough to entertain this idea and the English weather played it's part by providing torrential rain or hot and humid conditions that made the thought of outdoor climbing a complete waste of time.

Five weeks into training and it is finally clicking, I think! I finally feel like I am returning to some form of strength and fitness. Most of my training has been pretty normal for me- finger boarding and climbing on the board. The only difference being my addition of a power endurance arm session on the campus board, I hope this will give me a building block for increasing my fitness and in turn giving me better day fitness for bouldering.

I now have a 5 day trip to Fontainebleau coming up for a friends birthday, this is my rest week! Circuiting, beer, wine, cheese and patisserie is the aim and my body is definitely looking forward to it. On our return I will have 4 weeks more of training time before heading back to the States for 3 months. This 4 weeks will be more climbing orientated with a bit of specific power and max. strength training thrown in!

I have to say I haven't trained like this for 2 years but the last time I did this I climbed the best I ever had in Fontainebleau and Switzerland, so fingers crossed it will leave me feeling floaty light and strong!

I had forgotten quite how hard it is- my body has been in pain, my mind ravaged by the need for constant psyche for the pretty dull and monotonous training techniques but I know it will be worth it. So you ask how have I kept going?! The Olympics!!! I have been glued to the computer screen watching all the athletes come out and give it their very best, dealing with disappointments and successes they have all been phenomenal and it has truly inspired me. I have been training for just over 4 weeks, these guys have been working hard, pushing their PB's and vomiting in their hands for nearly 4 years. Some of them only took up their sport 4 years ago and have won gold already, others decided it would help them to get a scholarship for University and of course the historic first appearance of a disabled athlete competing against able bodied athletes. My hats go off to them, I just hope that climbers one day will be able to train that hard and compete on a level that high. The Olympics is a dream for any athlete and it has touched me far more this year than any other; so a thank you to the IOC for giving it to London over Paris, thanks to the organisers but mostly to the athletes who have all worked so hard to get where they are. Good luck to you all, especailly Team GB!

Role on 2016 in Rio and 2020 with the potential introduction of climbing into the Olympics. We all know it should be there!

 

by David Mason

Gobot V11, RMNP.

Terrorism Arete V7 and Sunspot V10, RMNP.