Back in 2007, Adam Hocking did the sought-after Sheep Pen traverse(s) in Ogwen. True to form, he gave them 7C+. However, they feel hard for 8A to me. I finally managed one of them yesterday; Kingdom of Pain is the Gnasher exit version and maybe the second ascent. Nice one Hock!

 

Setting up fot the hard second-half...

 

...latching Gnasher and the end. Ding dong catching me up in the background.

Loads of bouldering been going on in Wales. I've remembered how good Welsh bouldering is. Very varied, very beautiful, very funny, and yes (Dan) there are even some high-balls and aesthetic 'lines'. Here are some shots from this winter season.

Caff grunting up crimps on Spawn 7C+, Ogwen. I did this a much nicer way grappling lovely undercuts and slopers.

 

Flick of the Wrist, 7C+, Tan Y Grisiau. A great stand alone wall with 2 powerful twisty pulls.

 

Trench Feaver, 7C+, Braichmelyn Forest, Bethesda. A brilliant first ascent. It was shit weather, but I was bursting to try it so I went up with a saw and 5 rags and spent an hour airing the trench and wiping off oozey ming general wettness. The next evening, a few more rags and it was dry!

 

Jim'll Fix It, 7B+, Porth Ysgo. This is a truly great line and problem. I was reluctant to try this since Jim McCormack had a good session on it and wanted it. But everyone else was having a go, or talking about having a go, so I couldn't resist. Sorry Jim! RIP Jimmy Saville

 

Cirque du Soleil, F8a, Ormes. This is was lovely first ascent traverse on one of the few sunny crags on the Orme. Great sun sets on sale here. Quick drying too, so if everything else is gopped out or under water, check this out. Its quite long but spliyt into 3 7A+ ish sections with rests inbetween. Lovely rock and fun moves.

 

Anweledig, 7C, Blaenau Festiniog. Another quality first ascent. Hanging out with Simon Panton really starting to pay off. Great granite-esque slopers and burly prow-hugging and slapping in store here - very Cresiano. Did a few other great high strong lines around here too. Check out Northwalesbouldering.com

 

O.M.G, 7B+, Crafnant. Big proud first ascents available at Crafnant. Crazy how such classic lines were still to go. This slab is like La Super Prestat at Cuvier, only a bit harder.

 

On Your Marks, 7C, Crafnant. First ascent. Perfect slopers and heels, heaven.