On Friday night Paul Smitton and I are setting off to go to the Frankenjura in Germany. We are going to stay there for nearly a month. The plan is to drive through the night so that we arrive at Gasthof Eicher or to us brits Martha’s campsite at around midday. I hope she remembers me and gives me a free slice of one of her amazing cakes!
I think when we get there first thing first after the long journey will be to reacquaint ourselves with some of the region’s world class beers. The Germans really know how to make a good beer and the kellerbeers around there are just amazing. If you ever find yourself in the Jura make sure you try some of the dunkles (dark beer) they are tip-top and it’s great way to finish the day.
So I have one main goal for the trip and for me it’s a big one. I’m going to try Action Direct. Action needs little introduction as it’s one of the most famous sport routes in the world and its creator Wolfgang Gullich is one of the biggest legends in climbing. I’m not really sure why I first got involved with this route, when I first tried it three years ago I was a total punter on it. I did manage all the moves eventually but each move was so close to my limit that I would be powered out just doing one on its own. I just want to say thank you to Katy for belaying me on that trip, she’s got a lot of patience!
The style of climbing that epitomises Action isn’t usually my cup of tea, my natural style and strengths are more geared towards easy angled technical crimping. This year could be different, I feel that I’ve done some pretty solid training and I’ve tried to work my weaknesses. I feel as strong as I ever have done which probably doesn’t mean much but either way I’m ready to give it my best shot. All I need now is a strong head, good conditions and a copious amount of luck….
Ps: Muel if you’re reading this you can be the hardest while I’m gone ;)
Contributed by: Ryan Pasquill