A Churnet Visit
Here's a quick vid of some nice problems near Alton Towers/ The first i can only assume was someone's project judging by the cleaning and chalked holds. Unfortunately i only had the one pad and billy no mates with me or it would've been quite safe. After a warm up on the pride I had a play. Considering both these routes just involve pulling downwards on different sized holds they are suprisingly fun, or maybe its just my high boredom threshold. It was a bit spicy as there was a triple stepped (triple threat) landing. Stupidly i put my pad on the rocks and it was at an angle. Meaning that after one of my initial forays i fairly rolled my bad ankle. Luckily it didn't go completely and after a bit of huffing, puffing and a sit down, then walking in circles then sitting down. I was ready to try it again. With the added incentive not to fall off (rocks exposed, pad now on the flat bit) I stuck the awkward slot and fettled to the top. Ground up. I'll leave the naming to whoevers project it was, unless it wasn't and i'll think of something. Dunno how hard it was but somewhere around 7B+/7C would make sense. After that i popped over to Wrights and had a great time. I managed to not fall off Warchild (7C) but this really needs a top out. Jumping off at that height is fanny central, especially with the Pride, Thumbelina and Cornelius all in the vicinity. I was ropeless for the day and couldn't clean it. But next time i go back it'll be getting brushed. It looks like it'll add a bit too which will make it an uber classic highball. After doing a few other classics I got stuck into Quill (i think Cofe named this but its better than Ryan's problem, as the lazy git didn't name it) Turns out Ryans grading of it was almost as fruitful as his naming. I certainly can't think of any harder 7C+s and it seemed only slightly easier than B.O.P at Millstone. From a sitter this'd certainly be solid at 8A, i did the move to and out of the backhand but i'd lost enough skin on the little crimp (which lost a little side notch whilst i was trying it, making it longer but unnestlable and the old bit is still the best). the move from this to the back hand crimp is brilliant. Infact this is one of the best problems i've done in a long time. It's a shame it gets a bit lost in the width of the wall. Finally i had a quick play on Out There. I only had the roaches guide and it's not in this so i started trying it from under the bottom lip. This'd make a brilliant micro 8A+/8B on good rock and 2 brutal moves to get the RH in the nasty pinch slot, and then you get to do a great 7B after that. All in all it was a lovely day out, even if my ankle is complaining a bit.
Contributed by: Dan Varian