After doing a load of offwidths/offwidth training for so long, I decided it was time to give what most people would call real climbing another go. Whilst training for my offwidth America trip I did do other 'normal' climbing, however it was never my real goal or purpose and offwidths were always at the front of my mind whenever i was thinking about climbing.
Its been pretty strange coming back from America, as I set out to do a specific climb two years ago, and two years later i managed to do it, the training I did for it had little relevance to any other climbing and I didn't have any other goals that the specific training would be useful for. Anyway, I have liturally gone from offwidth mad to completely stopping the training, thinking and doing offwidths in a matter of a plane journey. To be honest I haven't been that bothered and I've been glad to move onto something else.
I have started testing out a few bits of training that i've never done before, to see if I can actually get a bit better, so I don't have to use my heal, knee, head, etc on every hold to jib my way up stuff (because it gets annoying after a while).
After a couple of months training I headed out to Spain for a one week quick hit sport climbing trip with Katy, Mawsons and Hazel. The aim was to see if I had actually improved... Having not done any sport climbing for around a year and half I was pleasantly surpirsed to find myself onsighting 8a on my first day as my 3rd route of the trip. Obvioulsy this is not big numbers at all compared to world standards, but it showed me I was already starting to move in the direction i wanted to after only a couple of months.
I'm psyched and ready to improve on the stuff i'm crap at.
Contributed by: Pete Whittaker