End Sequence
15th Jun 2012
I Finally managed the Sitter to Launch Sequence this week , my last 2 sessions were within touching distance of it and i could feel it coming together. Its also hardly a sitter as the holds of Launch sequence start about 9feet up so by sitting at the jug at the back of the roof you really are knackered by the time your 8m up at the top of the mighty Launch. This has been one of the funnest project experiences of my life, with pleasant progressive sessions and decent conditions whenever i went. The only down side is that i needed time between sessions for my heel skin to stop hurting (its a bit heel hooky on the right leg) and the sequence has so much micro beta it was nails to remember it all.
After a bad, totally random, bike accident in the capital a fortnight ago and a really bad wrist sprain i thought my year really was going down the pan and i was sick of reality getting in the way of expectations (along with a good dose of bad luck), but after a fretful week of rest and non climbing i managed to get it working well enough to climb hard on straight wrist moves. I did a few things like antihydral (basically flash) and sitter to honeycomb (8A+?) to get the confidence up. With other commitments I thought i was going to have to wait to get on it, but a surprise window came up when Katie had a meeting in Newcastle the morning of us leaving for a short holiday to Scotland so i blasted in for a few quick attempts. The barefoot run (my first since last year) along the beach the day before seemed to pay off despite a large blister coming along for the ride. Anyway i managed not to cock up enough to finally get up it.
I'd like to call it End Sequence, and it roughly seemed hard 8B? to me in relation to all other things considered in the county but who knows as per usual i feel it could be a lot easier if you could leave your heel on for the last move and utterly nails if your short. I'll wait for someone else to give it a good bash before i really commit to thinking of it as hard as its been purely myself working it so i may well have missed a trick or two.
Its one of the two things i really wanted to get done in the county this year anyhow and its taken a load off getting it done. Its almost a perfect problem, start jug, great landing, totally non eliminate obvious line, engaging all the way and lovely holds.
Contributed by: Dan Varian
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