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So I’m back in England after spending a month in the Jura. I have come back empty handed, well empty handed in the respect that I didn’t climb Action Direct. I have come back feeling pretty bronzed after what felt like the most sun I’ve had in years. If you’re going to go on holiday to get spanked by a route you might as well top up your vitamin D at the same time. Also to compensate for my lack of climbing ability I’ve brought lots of very nice German beers back. Bring on the beer belly! The trip basically consisted of me flailing around on Action waiting for skin to heal and hoping for cooler temps. Between all that I tried very hard not to drink too much beer (weakness) and got my arse kicked by smit at mini golf! This seemed to make Smit very happy but I did manage to claw some self-respect back by becoming the overall shithead champion. Yes!
Now that I’m back its hard to know what to do next climbing wise, I certainly don’t fancy getting on anything hard. Maybe a trip to Pembroke this weekend is in order. It will be a good chance to catch up with some mates, hangout in the pub and do some nice trad plodding.
On Friday night Paul Smitton and I are setting off to go to the Frankenjura in Germany. We are going to stay there for nearly a month. The plan is to drive through the night so that we arrive at Gasthof Eicher or to us brits Martha’s campsite at around midday. I hope she remembers me and gives me a free slice of one of her amazing cakes!
I think when we get there first thing first after the long journey will be to reacquaint ourselves with some of the region’s world class beers. The Germans really know how to make a good beer and the kellerbeers around there are just amazing. If you ever find yourself in the Jura make sure you try some of the dunkles (dark beer) they are tip-top and it’s great way to finish the day.
So I have one main goal for the trip and for me it’s a big one. I’m going to try Action Direct. Action needs little introduction as it’s one of the most famous sport routes in the world and its creator Wolfgang Gullich is one of the biggest legends in climbing. I’m not really sure why I first got involved with this route, when I first tried it three years ago I was a total punter on it. I did manage all the moves eventually but each move was so close to my limit that I would be powered out just doing one on its own. I just want to say thank you to Katy for belaying me on that trip, she’s got a lot of patience!
The style of climbing that epitomises Action isn’t usually my cup of tea, my natural style and strengths are more geared towards easy angled technical crimping. This year could be different, I feel that I’ve done some pretty solid training and I’ve tried to work my weaknesses. I feel as strong as I ever have done which probably doesn’t mean much but either way I’m ready to give it my best shot. All I need now is a strong head, good conditions and a copious amount of luck….
Ps: Muel if you’re reading this you can be the hardest while I’m gone ;)
This is my first proper blog. It's a total ramble but I just want to say thanks to FiveTen, Arcteryx and the Bigstone crew.
I have been receiving free shoes off FiveTen for years now and i've never really done anything for them. Ok I may have been caught out by 'a man with a camera' a couple times at the crag and the photo's may have ended up in the mags but that's it. No effort on my part, just going climbing!
FiveTen have always been my favourite shoes and I can't see that changing. I really like the smell when you open a new box and you get the sent of new rubber and glue. Mmmmm! Don't get my wrong I was a bit of a scally growing up in Bolton but I never got into glue sniffing. It's the combination of the glue and rubber that smell nice and it's the rubber that for me really makes FiveTen special. You just cannot beat Stealth rubber when it comes to friction and smears. I know I wouldn't be able to trust any other shoe on a scary grit route. Also I think for british limestone routes it would be hard to beat the Anasazi Whites, they are a class shoe.
As for the Arcteryx kit I know what my mate Twinny would say about it using his best Bolton accent....'smart'. It's also super light and keeps you toasty. For me the best bit is that you can go to the pub straight from climbing and look like you have dressed for the occasion. :)
Right first real blog done, maybe it's time to join facebook . . . .