23rd Sep 2008
Tyler Landman - Bang On
Tyler's report on Bang On, Ben Moon's legendary test piece from ages ago.
Footage of this in its project from was immortalized in Rampage. The stunning line, goes directly out, over a steep bulge on the side of a boulder that looks like a space-ship.
The first move is the crux, harder now, than in the first ascent, since a large section of the starting hold broke. It's a huge move from a jug to a right hand gaston crimp, followed by a tweeky match, a re-adjust, then move the right hand to a perfect in cut edge, and then the finisher; a big jump to a perfect flat, smooth jug that waits an inch from the lip.
Tyler reports, "one hour in on trying the problem, I found my sequence. I pulled on, stuck the big first move for the first time and seized the moment, I bared down to the fullest and stuck the dyno with gusto. Snatch"
Amazing problem as Ty says "I was quite glad to do it before truly rupturing my fingers. I felt I had earned the next day of rest, it had been my 5th day on".
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